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Writer's pictureJamie Denty

Don't Tell Me No...


At sunset, a shrimp boat heads homeward via Sapelo River.


Recently, we went with friends to a seafood restaurant outside of Richmond Hill. For Bob and me, it was our first visit. Although we enjoyed the company of these long time friends more than we did the meal itself, we were intrigued by the remoulade sauce served with our crab cakes. A reddish blend, it was delicious - light and delicate, yet with a hint of spicy pungency. In a way, it reminded me of French dressing. which I initially thought might be an ingredient.


Of course, they wouldn’t share their secret recipe. That denial sent me on a search the next day for a recipe. With one click on Google, I found not one, but numerous recipes for this tasty sauce. Most of the on-line recipes share almost identical ingredients in the same proportions, except for the mayonnaise. The amount of this base ingredient varies from 1/3 cup to 2 cups, but each recipe called for the same amount of similar ingredients.


So, I started my own taste test. While I thought two cups of mayonnaise would dilute any subtitles of the other ingredients, I was doubtful that 1/3 cup would make enough sauce to serve. However, I followed the recipe to the letter. While the final result was good, I thought it could use a tad more mayonnaise and perhaps some sugar to counter a bitter aftertaste. The next time I made the concoction, I started with a half cup of mayonnaise and added a pinch of sugar. It might not be identical to the restaurant’s dish, but I look forward to serving it at our next fish fry.


According to the Online Etymology Dictionary, remoulade sauce was created in France in 1845. Its name is a dialect word in France for one of the main ingredients: horseradish. I was sorry to learn that so many delicious sauces for meats that we enjoy today were originally invented to disguise spoilage.


However, it wasn’t long thereafter that both Creole and Cajun chefs in New Orleans were reinventing this idea and making it their own. In fact one of the famed Bourbon Street restaurants has even taken the name Remoulade. While the French invented this sauce specifically for meats, New Orleans serves it primarily with seafood of all kinds. In 1929, the Shrimp Po’boy, with remoulade sauce as its condiment, was first sold from a sidewalk vendor in The Big Easy.


While the French invented the sauce to serve with meats and the Americans use it as a delicacy for seafoods of all kinds, it’s served with French fries in Belgium, hot dogs in Denmark and Iceland and as an ingredient in German potato salad. More often now, it’s also served as a condiment for veggies like friend green tomatoes.


Remoulade Sauce

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons catsup

2 teaspoons brown mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 green onion, minced

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon horseradish

1-2 garlic clove, chopped

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon creole seasoning

pinch of sugar


Directions: In food processor mince onion and garlic. Add all remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for one to two hours before serving.

2013

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